Architectural USA

bill00000gray (September 27th, 2008 @ 5:33 pm)

excellent video with one reservation - unless you want to end your days suffering emphysema or some other lung condition you should always wear a quality respiraror when machining mdf.

jws54 (July 8th, 2008 @ 8:42 am)

god bless you

teachmeautocad (July 3rd, 2008 @ 11:31 am)

Ummm, not quite wood4me. Reread my post, then write back to apologize. I said: "Rather than having to constantly move the fence over for each cut, just cut a bunch of strips of scrap that are equal the saw kerf + the desired strip thickness." And next time, dispense with the sarcastic tone. It doesn't become you.

wood4me (June 18th, 2008 @ 10:44 pm)

Sorry, My comment was directed at teachmeautocad, whose suggestion is incorrect.

wood4me (June 18th, 2008 @ 10:34 pm)

Not quite sunshine. Each successive strip that you cut using your method will be thinner by the thickness (kerf) of your sawblade.

t44florida (June 18th, 2008 @ 4:16 am)

Thanks to you and Mr Coffman. Always wondered how to do this Safely.

jws54 (May 30th, 2008 @ 2:06 am)

I use a sarifice table so as to stop the sawn piece from falling into the saw throat. Then I push the board through against the fence using a nice pushblock. My hands are high and dry, no need to reset anything, no kickbacks or thin pieces falling into the throat. It is very simple. Rip and rip and rip some more. The price of a little plywood and a strong handled pushblock, has always worked for me. You can make your pushblocks any way you feel safe with them, extra long, extra high....

Orkomagic (April 30th, 2008 @ 2:20 am)

Rockler makes a jig for this. I may buy one to see how well it works. It's only like 20 bucks.

21Casey50 (January 19th, 2008 @ 6:18 pm)

Well done! Thank you for your time.

InTheWorkshop (January 12th, 2008 @ 2:40 pm)

Excellant addition to this technique, thanks for sharing! Things like this is what makes it all worth while, we all have experience to share, thanks again! Charles

teachmeautocad (January 12th, 2008 @ 1:48 pm)

Make an initial cut of the finished piece, just to clean it up. Then add one of the scrap pieces between the stock and the saw fence and the desired width piece will be cut to the left of the blade. Add another scrap piece between the stock and the fence and repeat. No feather board needed.

teachmeautocad (January 12th, 2008 @ 1:47 pm)

Hi Charles, I had this method published in Woodshop News over 10 years ago... Rather than having to constantly move the fence over for each cut, just cut a bunch of strips of scrap that are equal the saw kerf + the desired strip thickness. For example, if you want the strips to be 1/16" thick, and the kerf is 1/8", make the scrap strips 3/16" in thickness. Continued below...